There has been a revolution quietly building deep in New Zealand, where Bluff fisherman Nate Smith has spent the last decade working to find a sustainable and responsible way to harvest our beloved kaimoana..

After noticing declining fish populations and the unsustainable systems used by commercial fishing companies, he pivoted Gravity Fishing and began offering premium line-caught seafood, catching only what which is needed on order, and encouraging the chefs he supplied to use the whole fish.

In general, there is an incredible amount of waste in the fishing industry, but with a little more thought and understanding, we can learn a lot about how to minimize our impact and maximize seafood than we use, thus ensuring the survival of future generations.

When I first moved to New Zealand ten years ago, I met local pāua fishermen on a surf trip in Southland. Absolutely embarrassed myself, I asked them what it was like to have a job diving for shells. Looking at me like I was an alien, they laughingly explained the value of pāua meat and its importance to New Zealand.

READ MORE:
* Where this spear fisherman finds ‘insane’ marine life in New Zealand
* Stewart Island/Rakiura is one of New Zealand’s top foodie destinations
* A guide to Rakiura National Park: when to go, where to stay and what to do

I had been in New Zealand for a year and had never heard of pāua meat, never seen it on a menu or tried it anywhere. But I had seen shells everywhere. Even now, I don’t think my conclusion was that far-fetched, and while I’m no longer embarrassed, I feel like New Zealand should be when it comes to pāua.

One of the most delicious and abundant shellfish, it is a pity that much of it is exported overseas. Very few Kiwis enjoy it regularly, and usually that’s only if you know how to catch it yourself. Shouldn’t one of New Zealand’s most iconic seashells be loved by New Zealanders? Affordable too?

industry is valued at several billion dollars.” style=”width:100%;display:inline-block”/>

My pāua story is not unique and can apply to many of our most amazing New Zealand flavors, from crayfish to lamb and even wine, which is often cheaper in London than in Christchurch.

But as the world begins to change and opens its eyes to the long-term impacts of commercial industries like fishing, there has been a reckoning when it comes to valuing responsibly and sustainably harvested food, to fill the disconnect that happened where the food begins. until we see it.

Curiosity has led many people, especially millennials like me, to educate themselves and make more responsible decisions when it comes to dropping our hard-earned dollars.

A third-generation Ngāi Tahu fisherman, Nate is driven by this need to care for the sea, to share the incredible food story we have here, and to inspire others with mindful eating and foraging techniques. Gravity Fishing has once again looked forward and now offers bespoke day and multi-day trips, taking small groups on the boat around Rakiura/Stewart Island to learn all about the hook-to-table movement .

During the experience, guests learn about ethical and sustainable fishing and foraging practices before returning to shore and having their freshly caught food prepared by some of New Zealand’s top chefs. Food? Adventure? Preservation? You don’t have to ask me twice.

The Gravity Experience is a wonderful way to experience Rakiura/Stewart Island through the lens of its distinctive culinary culture and history. In a way, Nate has crafted a new kind of experience that appeals to curious travelers – from fishing enthusiasts and intrepid foodies to those eager to learn something new and experience New Zealand’s third largest island. a new and exciting way.

A few days aboard the Gravity around Rakiura/Stewart Island will probably change your life significantly. Before boarding, I thought I was pretty knowledgeable about seafood, but I left filled with a newfound respect for seafood, as well as wisdom on how to cook it. catch and prepare them in a smart, responsible and of course, delicious way.

For many, a trip on the Gravity could be the first time they’ve tasted fresh seafood prepared as it should be. I can’t tell you how many people I’ve met who avoid seafood, often because it hasn’t been prepared well or isn’t fresh.

I also believe that when we eat fish or meat or produce that has been fished or grown responsibly and in smaller quantities, it tastes so much better. And I speak from experience as an American who grew up eating things that I’m not sure would qualify as food today. Nate shared with us the Japanese technique of ‘ikejime’ which is a humane way of shipping fish that also preserves the quality and taste of the meat.

A lot of Kiwis tend to think that New Zealand lacks food culture, but I found that was not the case. The Maori worldview in particular has an incredible history and culinary culture that is only finally being recognized once again.

From the flavors of the bush to the kaimoana and even the tannin taste of the water, everything in the south tastes bigger and better. And there’s almost no better place to experience New Zealand food culture than on Rakiura/Stewart Island, which is bursting with unique kiwi flavors.

There’s a lot of ethics involved when it comes to what to catch and what not to catch, and spending time with someone like Nate who has such knowledge of the sea , as well as a deep respect for it, is all the more significant.

I was lucky enough to spend several days aboard the Gravity with Nate’s family and friends, and loved seeing the curiosity and excitement in their eyes. We have strayed from our roots and forgotten where our food comes from. Perhaps the real value behind Gravity and Nate’s mission is that he helps rebuild that connection once again.

Essential:

Gravity Fishing offers multi-day fishing and dining trips, custom experiences and day trips for up to 12 people around Rakiura/Stewart Island. See: gravityfishing.co.nz

Stay safe: New Zealand is currently under Covid-19 restrictions. Follow the instructions on covid19.govt.nz.